Cape Tribulation -1st May
On the way from Port Douglas we popped in early to Mossman Gorge . Its another one of these fantastic ravines with huge boulders and cool running water. Our plan was to have an energising walk up to the gorge a swim then back already for the journey ahead.
We were first hit with a warning not to walk to the gorge but that we must take the 10 dollar “complimentary “ bus. Then signs forbid swimming -pretty much scratching both parts of the plan ! However when we got their the Australian take on laws and rules came into play which is basically viewing them more as optional guidelines was in play with a few rebel souls having a dip. Kate and I joined ranks and went for a very refreshing win up and around the massive boulders.
You often hear that crossing the daintree is the start of your Cape York trip. Crossing by means of the pulley ferry was a cracking way to do it . Only 8 cars and us and it was a Sunday before a Monday public holiday to boot .
The road was very windy and extremely narrow in places.
We made good progress to get to Cape Tribulation campsite. This is in the Daintree Rainforest and right on the edge of Myall Beach which arcs around a shallow lagoon created by the inshore reef.
We walked the whole length of the beach right up to Cape Tribulation itself . Cape Tribulation gets its name from Jimmy Cooks spot of bother on the reef with his boat in 1770.
We even had a go at cracking open our own coconuts , a skill not innate from northern hemispherites as evidenced by not only us but a german family who tried their luck too.The fishing was interesting as you had to wade out in the lagoon to the edge of the reef at low tide to access the reef species in the drop off. Got a few decent fish but as yet I don’t know what they are.
We also decided to have a day trip to Cooktown which might seem odd as it was the next town on our journey but it meant taking the car over “The Bloomfiled track “ which meanders its way up through the rainforest over some extremely steep sections (1:3) and a few river crossings. This track was created on the 60s but it was washed away . It was then recreated in the 80s amid quite a bit of furore from environmentalist groups and indigenous communities . The repercussions were that the track remained but the area became a national park and world heritage listed. The Bloomfield has been tamed somewhat with concrete sections on the steepest parts and the most challenging river crossings now sport bridges but it was still fun nonetheless. This driver was not quite as careful as us !
As we exited the Bloomfield we witnessed our fist salty (Salt Water crocodile). We were looking down on the river from a high section of the track . We reckon it was 2.5 metres plus long. These crocs thrive in salt , brackish and freshwater. They are protected and this has positively increased numbers. It does however bring tension between locals and authorities due to the presence of these creatures in communal areas and even domestic (there was a story in the paper about how a man had a 3m saltwater croc nesting in his garden 10m from his house in Mossman).
We paid a visit to the iconic Lions Den pub which is at the end of the Bloomfield track. Its rafters hold an interesting array of garments including a wedding dress and signed bras !
At Cape Tribulation we were reminded about the rain in rainforest and for one day were stuck in the van (everywhere else was shut as it was Labour day public holiday in queensland). So we took the opportunity to “declutter” the van and reorganised some cupboard space so all was not lost.